A steadfast, humble and delicious vegetarian curry, beloved of Bombay families. Refresh your afternoon with a drop of Chai and a small plate or two. Remembering Bombay Jazz, Dishoom Kensington takes it back to the 1930s with bright colours and funky patterns. With ‘hot jazz’ humming in the background, the sweltering heat of Bombay nights seems closer than ever. This section of the restaurant’s relatively low ceiling, and the concentration of bodies in its particularly narrow area make you feel either extremely tight and uncomfortable or cosy and warm, depending on who you are. Picture Bademiya in Colaba, a Bombay institution since 1942. (S)

A balmy night, with newspapers laid out on old car bonnets. (V) Dishoom Kensington pays loving homage to the Irani cafés and food of Bombay set in the heart of High Street Kensington. 11.50

Dishoom, Kensington is close to where I live and boasted highly acclaimed Indian food that I hadn’t had in a while, so it seemed the obvious choice. Grilled Indian cheese with green leaves and mint chutney on the side.

Wealthy men of industry eye up coquettish women in cholis that expose more of their midriffs than strictly considered decent.

Corn-on-the-cob, grilled over charcoal fire, then finished with butter, chilli, salt and lime, Chowpatty beach style. With minced garlic and coriander sprinkle.

A classic of Irani cafés: spiced minced lamb and peas with a toasted, buttered home-made bun.

Vegan, gluten and dairy-allergy menus are available.An optional service charge of 12.5% will be added to your bill. Freshly baked in the tandoor. Savour. (V)

Say hello, leave feedback or get in touch with a café. Our cookery book, gift coins, vinyl LP and CD. 9.90

3.50

No reasoning given, just assertively told to move as she walked past to another table, and I obeyed like a good guest, shrugging off the inconvenience. An immediate gift for any recipient. A lot of restaurant critics take exception to this, which I suppose is because waiting for a table is essentially time wasted on a restaurant that may not be one they necessarily want to review. The fortunes of the Bombay Roxy have been turned around, and now it shines brightly where darkness once stood. His name was once synonymous with Bombay’s racketeers, with murky allegiances, and with police escorts to Arthur Road Jail. Dishoom store Our cookery book, gift coins, vinyl LP and CD. She had been rather loquacious until that point, sporadically coming to my table to ask how things were, even presumptuously pointing out that if the food was too much that she could arrange a carry bag for me. Slow-cooked, layered and aromatic, the Biryani traces its origins to Iran — as does the old Bombay Café. Apparently, it would be a wasted trip if I left without trying it, so I altered my order to her specifications, forgoing the chops. 4.20

Breakfast, lunch, afternoon chai, dinner and late tipples.

Dishoom Chicken Tikka A family recipe, using a marinade of sweet vinegar, not yoghurt. 3.20

(V) I was made to wait for about twenty minutes outside and around ten inside, thirty minutes in total which is not all that bad. Each one charred slightly at the edges, succulent and simple, nothing to bamboozle. Chicken thigh meat is steeped overnight in garlic, ginger, coriander stems and a little cream.

It is a nice venue with a lively ambience that establishes a change from the ennui soaked, orientalist dens where Indian food is traditional purveyed. Spill. Wallpaper* is part of TI Media Limited. A pot is to be shared, or kept as spicy contentment all for oneself.

Deliver in 20 - 35 min. Walk-ins are always welcome.The club didn’t always have this pull or indeed its current reputation. Two chops lie overnight in a special marinade of lime juice, warm dark spices, ginger and garlic. A note on health and safety

(S) 8.90 Tender shank of lamb is layered with rice and caramelised onions then sealed beneath a pastry blanket. 4.90

PICTURED: The Bombay Roxy songbird, Ursula Vaz. 9.70

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